Thursday, December 22, 2011

Madrid.

To all who are following my travels, I have made it to Madrid! It is my third day here and much has happened. I do not have access to a computer so I am not able to update as much as I was in Paris. Madrid is wonderful! The feeling this city gives off is so different then Paris. Parisians are a lot more to themselves, sort of snobbish and cold... Spañards are warm, loud, love to eat, drink, laugh and be all in your face. I love it. There are not as many skinny women here as there are in Paris, I can tell the people here enjoy their food :)
Being with my great grandmother is terrific. She has just as much spirit as last time I saw her, 9 years ago. I love talking, sharing stories and just being in her presence. I have been going out into the city every day the past 3 days. Yesterday I went to 2 museums, spent hours looking at art and fully enjoying myself. I met up with my mamas best friend Penelope who is visiting her daughter here in Madrid. It was such a fabulous surprise! We have been eating well and drinking wine the past day. I spent the night with them last night and it was so sweet to spend time together. Mañana I have plans to find a well known store to get chocolate and churros. I am quite excited. I ate a lot of cheese today and it was so delish!
There are a lot of beggars in the streets and I have been told to watch my camera and purse because of the gypsies. Gypsies!
I am excited to have Chrsitmas dinner with the familia, it will be great to see everyone all together.
I will update again if I can! I know this is short but at least its somethin right?

Monday, December 19, 2011

Au revoir Paris.

     To start off... I am sorry for whoever is reading this and noticing that my spelling is wrong or that I am mixing up letters... That is because the keyboards here are different! I have to go back and check my spelling on a lot of what I am writing and I dont always catch everything.
      The flea market was fabulous. When we first arrived I was a little doubtful and thought that it was just going to be a bunch of vendors selling crap because thats what you see right off the bat. There are many people selling knockoff shoes, purses, lots an lots of junk. As you make your way through the streets and alleys, deeper into the flea market (that is HUGE by the way) THAT is where you find the goods :). There was SO MUCH. I found beautiful antiques, pictures, glass ware, silver wear, furniture, vintage clothes, fabulous old army and marine gear. It seemed endless. I could have spent hundreds and hundreds on things that were so cool. I came away with 2 sweaters, some silver wear and old parfume bottles. All things that I was looking for. There were boutique stands, vendors, and then people on the street selling obvious random, stollen things. It made me chuckle. Oh! I also bought a watch that the seller tried selling for a much higher price then I was willing... so I bargained and got it for cheap. Go me. I had a great time looking at all that the market had to offer... and I looked at a fraction of what was there. I thought a lot of how Michael, my moms designer friend, and how he could fully decorate ANY house with things just from here. In the army stands I know he and Nick would have died looking at the fantastically simple clothes, bags, tins, and everything else they sold. I had to literally ask myself "do you really neeeed this Kathleen?" that helped with not buying everything.
      I wanted to thank again my mom and Jim for helping me out the other night when I showed up at the apartment I am staying at with no money and no keys. They really helped me out and I probably would have had to sleep in the metro if it wasnt for them... as well as for Trevor because he housed me that night.
     Michael-if you are reading this, there are buns everywhere. Hair buns that is. I know you love hair when it is all tied up in a messy bun... and here.... it is EVERYWHERE. It seems like an art to me. I have started to look at it as that, observing hair styles on the street, subway, in cafés, etc. I love it. With buns everywhere, scarves, leather bags and leather shoes are worn by everyone as well!! It is fabulous. It makes looking at people so much more interesting I think. Everyone looks sophisticated... even if they are not. I wish more men in the US wore scarves like they do here.... I think people may be scared that they will look "funny" or something. I dont know, what do you think?
        At  noon in Paris it is as if baguettes have taken over the hands of ALL parisians. Men, women, skinny, fat, little, big, everyone I tell you. It is so funny to me to see people walking around all over at lunch time chewing on large, long bread baguettes. Whether they are filled with sandwhich fillings or not they are everywhere.
       Today I went to the fabric district. It was a bit overwhelming because there was fabric everywhere. Literally flowing out of the store shops, on the street, in buildings going 4 levels up! My mom would hav died. I died a little. I was going to buy fabric then remembered I brought a carryon to Paris... and leave for Madrid tomorrow, and still have clothes to pack as well as the knick knacks that I have collected in the past week. I ended up buying 2 beautiful ribbons. That was enough to make me happy. The area we walked around was sweet, there were many little vintage shops lining the cobble stone streets that I wondered in and out of. I found a cool belt and a linen shirt for summer. Even though that seems years away especially with the COLD weather here. I end up not having feeling in ly toes after a couple hours outside walking and the feeling comes and goes in my fingers.
      Today I checked off eating a chocolate croissant, buying ribbon and having some fish all from my list. On my way back to the apartment I almost got lost on the metro. I got on the wrong one and ended up going way out of my way so it took me about an hour to get back. I enjoy riding the metro thought because I get to people watch up close. I stare. I am one of the people on public transportation that just stares and doesnt care what people think. Obviously I am not acting like a weirdo... but I do get transfixed on people talking, their conversatations and interactions with each other. Especially because I dont even know what they are talking about! It is so interesting to me to watch little french kids interact and speak. I love the way french sounds when a young child speaks it. I am envious of the kids... I wish I could speak french like they do!
        I have packed my suitcase for the morning plane ride, will be up and out early. I cannot wait to see family in Spain. Great Aunts and Uncles, Great Grandmother and many of my mom and Aunties cousins. I have had a fabulous time in Paris but I am ready for some new adventure, new scenery, family and a bed to myself. Even though it is going to be a blow up mattress! Bon nui for now. It will be hard to switch my brain from french... to spanish but I cant wait!

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Cheers.

      Woah do the french spoke. I feel as if I have become a smoker myself due to all the smoke intake I have had these past couple of days. The girl I am staying with says she doesnt even smoke that much... that much being 7 plus cigarretts a day. Audrey took me to a party of her friends and the air was so thick with smoke (the whole time) that it was like your eyes were glazed over. My eyes have been blood shot for a good day because of it I think. It is so strange to me that smoking is such a large part of the culture here, everyone does it. Everyone but me that is. Yuckk, my clothes reeked of smoke after and I had to air out all my things.
      After a night of 3-4 hours of sleep and a train ride back into the city that took an hour I was feeling pretty groggy and irritable. I needed to get out of the apartment and get some fresh air, as well as get some alone time away from Audrey and her friend. They went to a dance outside of the city, 2 hours away and I decided to just stay in the city and have a night alone in the apartment. I went exploring and had researched some vintage shops I wanted to stop in so I took the metro to the area surrounding the Canal Saint-Martin. The 3 shops I wrote down I found pretty easily, one of which was a classically fantastic store! I probably could have gotten quite a few things for myself there but it was highly over priced. I wandered the streets, going into little boutiques, shops, cafes. The area is so artsy and beautiful! There are murals painted on the walls all throughout the streets, some cool, some cartoony, some graphical. It is so contrasting to the old timeless buildings that they attach themselves to. I found myself fully content and happy. The air wash fresh, there were no husstling and busstling of cars and people, the canal was beautiful shinning in the blue sunny sky, flocks or birds flew over me as the cold chills of the wintery parisian air hit my face and bunddled body. I still get looks like I am a photographer because I just walk around taking photos of everything, its funny! I found some of the coolest stores in that area, if you are ever in Paris... for SURE go to the Canal area. I also had the best supper Ive had here. It was a vegetarian restaurant, serving tofu and quinoa and all the weird hippy food I love. I found it online so it was my goal to find it... and it was so worth it. It was in the back of a dead end street that didnt have anything else besides a garden store, some apartment buildings and a book store. I had the most beautiful day Ive had in Paris yet but it ended badly because I got pick pocketed on the metro. I lost my wallet, and the apartment keys Audrey had given me were in my wallet as well. Audrey was out of the city, luckily I know a friend living in Paris so I was able to sneak onto the metro, meetup with him and bum around for the rest of the night. I had no money, no ID, no nothing! He was off to a school christmas party and invited me to come. It ended up being so fun! We were attending a gallery show that the students put on, there was endless food from all the countries of the students as well as drinks, music and dancing. Everyone was very welcoming and we ended up all partying until 1 in the morning. Students and teachers together. The school is a graduate program for photographers and the students who attend this english school come from many many countries, it is a very diverse group.
        After the christmas party, we went back to Trevors apartment to regroup and head to the clubs. Not my style, but I went along with it anyways because I had trevor screaming at me "when are you EVER in Paris!!?"... he is right. SO we ended up leaving the club at 6 in the morning! We went to a bar down where a lot of clubs are in Paris, it was crazy. SO many people down there. Trev, his gf, his brazilian friend and I got into a new club that was having a private party... Ricardo (his friend) played it cool and sweet talked our way into the club. It. Was. Sick. There was Paris' most famous photographer and a bunch of "important" looking people. You could tell there was lots of money in the club just by the clothes people were wearing and the shoes I was surrounded by. The fashionable and rich have their own world I tell you. I was out of my league for suuuure. It was really interesting watching the people tho. The club was intense, underground and brand new, the rooms wrapped all over the place. There were gold and black walls, a dance floor, bar, smoke room and coat check. here are some photos: http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/designers/david-lynch-ouvre-le-silencio-club-parisien_1025355.html.
       Overall it has been an exhausting 2 days and with 8 hours under my belt the past 2 nights I am passing out early tonight. Everything has worked out and my credit cards are cancelled, I have money and got a falafel for dinner. Life is good again. I have 2 more days in Paris... The flea market is tomorrow! Yipee :)

Thursday, December 15, 2011

"so french".

       I ventured out early and returned early today. I woke up this morning while it was still dark... it was sort of sweet in a way. Audrey left at 7 to finish up her finals and I ended up rolling out of bed at 7 45. I made myself some tea, had my yogurt and banana(today I had a banana and a half...they were so good!) sat and enjoyed it for a few minutes as I checked up on some emails then told myself I would be out of the apartment by 9. I did that exactly! It was still not fully light outside when I ventured into the streets of Paris but the cloudy sky was slowly getting brighter and brighter. I decided NOT to walk all the way to my furthest destination today which was over by Bastille, exactly where I was yesterday. I fell in LOVE with this little shop called merci. I got there a few minutes before the store opened so I waited and people watched outside for  10 min or so. This store is incredible.... EVERYTHING in it I wanted to buy. I ended up just purchasing a grocery bag, and some linen napkins. There were linen table cloths I fell in love with, gardening tools, kitchen wear, plates, bowls, jewelry, clothes! It had about everything you would ever need..... and I wanted to get it all. Luckily I was on a time crunch and had to meet Ally(my plane friend) over near the Italian side of Paris which was quite a ways away even by metro, otherwise I dont know how long I would have spent there or how much money.
      SO after taking the metro across the city, I came to the tea shoppe Ally and I decided to meet at but it was sadly closed and she was nowhere in sight. So I went off on my own. I wandered down some neighborhood streets, there were shops here and there, cafes, bars, it was sweet and not as busy or fast passed as some of the other parts of Paris. I found a bee shop. Where the man wo owned it sold honey, bees wax candles, bee hive hear, the whole shabang. It was glorious. He helped me try honey and I decided on getting at little jar of lavender honey to add to my morning yogurt and tea. (I just added a spoonful to my tea now and it is delicious!) He let me take a photo of him in his shop and I think thought I was a journalist... hehe, Ive gotten that a few times because I carry around the Nikon camera my dad loaned me.
          After wandering around and not knowing where I was I decided to follow the cars and bikes to the nearest large street. I found a cheese shop that was right next to a fruit and veggie stand. Just what I needed. I bought myself some brie that was so so yummy and another soft cheese that is goats milk. I then decided to match that with a bottle of red wine. Oui, oui very french of me right? Cheese and wine for lunch, with an apple to pair! I was going to try and find a park to sit and eat it all at but then the weather decided to change, and it changed fast... It started to sprinkle, the temperature dropped and the clouds came in. 
        My feet were killing me from all the walking in my boots so I gave in, bought myself 10 new metro tickets instead of walking all the way across town back home. It was a good choice though, on the metro I could feel myself loosing energy fast. I returned to the apartment, undressed out from all my layers, cut up apple, cheese, poured myself some wine and made a cup of tea with my new lavender honey. Audrey got back not too much after me and laughed at how "french" I was being. 
       The wine got to be... I thought by drinking tea with it maybe it would level out.... mmmm nope. I just woke up from a sweet little cat nap. I feel a little rested and now am going to make myself some more tea. Audrey and I have a little while before we leave for the gallery opening and have to get ready for the rest of the night. We are taking the train out to her friends house (out of the city) and staying the night there... hopefully some people at the party will be able to speak english!
        Au revoir for now. Let the night begin!

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

4. nighttime.

        Audrey just got home after a couple hours of studying... She made some pasta and is heading to bed. I have been on the computer for the past 2 hours or so researching places to go so I am not so aimlessly wandering around the streets of Paris. I have a good long list of things to do tomorrow and over the weekend. Audrey and I have decided that we need to make an indefinite plan of our days because we never can decide on what we want to do or where we want to go. Ha! 
        So tomorrow I am meeting up with the girl I met on the plane, we have some shops we are going to go see, a café that I want to try and an ice cream shop I have herd people rave about. I also was invited to a gallery opening that my friend Richard is taking photos at so tomorrow before Audrey and I go to her friends party we are going to the opening. It will be fun I think, food, people, photos, etc! 
       After reading a few blogs of what to do, what to see, I hav come to the conclusion that I need to do more of 2 things. That is spend money on clothes.... and spend money on food. Which is a hard thing when I am working with a budget... I will try my best though, I have to say I am not in Paris that often ;)
     Au revoir for now. Time for some reading and sleep.

4.

What a day!
  Audrey woke me up this morning on her way out to the library, she still has a couple more finals and then she is done. So Thursday night... we're going out! This morning was cloudy when I woke. I showered, made some tea, had banana and yogurt, answered some emails and then was out of the apartment by 10! I walked down to the Eiffel Tower, like I have every day,  along the Seine then made my way up to the Arc de Triomphe. Walking through the streets is just pure eye candy. From the architecture, to the sky, the the men who walk by me, I just cant seem to get enough. On my way through the streets I wondered through an outdoor market. It had fruit stands, little gismo stands, flowers and much more. The fruit stands shone like diamonds to my eyes. All I wanted to do was buy loads of veggies and fruit but I knew that would hinder my wandering through the city. I smartly packed 3 tangerines and a banana for snacking. It is fascinating how scary drivers are in Paris. All they do is cut each other off, lay on the horn and cut each other off. I watched this go on for a few minutes as hundreds of cars drove the loop around the Arc de Triomphe. I walked further down the Avenue des champs-élysées through the little noel market. There are little christmas markets set up all over the city, with fake snow, the shops are in little wooden elf looking houses and every couple shops down they sell food. The food is soo delicious smelling! There is pasta being made, crepes, hot wine, cider, hot dogs, sausages, everything you name it. Walking through all this was so christmassy. Here they do not have christmas tree lots, at lest not that Ive seen. It is more someone who found a corner on the street so sell christmas trees, like a make shift christmas tree lot. What is lovely is that I have not seen ONE bushy ugly christmas tree like they sell back home. Here they are all douglas firs, the ones that have spaces between each level of branch. I also noticed that the Parisiens like to spray paint and frost their trees. It is sort of an odd thing, I think. I saw a black decorated one today outside a restaurant, I have seen white multiple times and the occasional pink colored tree(all real spray painted trees!)
       I proceeded to walk through the Jardin des Tuileries, the sun was slipping behind rain clouds and it made me nervous because I again did not bring an umbrella. I stopped to people watch for a few, and to give my feet a rest, watched the fountains, birds and sky change, it was beautiful. Snapping photos here and there... I saw a couple sitting by the fountain when the man kneeled down to propose! It was so magical... her face lit up, she grabbed her face and kissed him. It was a subtle sweet little experience I got to carry the rest of the day with me. 
         The louvre was filled with a good amount of tourists and I was approached by many people trying to sell little gismos. I walked through the Louvre last time I was here I just wanted to see it again... its huge! I found some sweet little side streets that had nice shops, bought a bracelet for myself and a little metal jewelry box. I met up with a friend, Richard for a beer at a pub, we had good conversation and he showed me a few fun places to go around the neighborhood we were in. After the beer, I went to a grocery store to pick up some almonds and chocolate. :) Dark chocolate to be exact... I cant stop eating it either! I am going to have another piece now actually....
      I was out for a good 8 hours today, told Audrey I would be back by the time it was dark, I am home now but I dont know where she is. We were thinking we would go out tonight but my feet are so sore I dont know if I can put my boots back on! I am making some tea and washing some clothes in the sink. No washer or dryer here so we hand wash!
     Today was sweet, tiring, and now it is time for me to read and decompress.


3.


              This morning after I emailed I set off into the city on my own. I walked for hours! I mean hours. I ended up all the way at the Notre Dame by the end of the day. I got a little discombobulated trying to find Boulevard St. Germain where most of the shops are so that gave me an extra 45 min of walking just because I got off course. I was so okay with it though because I got to observe... which is the best! Everything is eye candy here.... from the street signs, to the architecture to the men walking around in scarves and pea coats. I bopped in and out of shops, came upon this MAGNIFICENT umbrella shop that carries hand made umbrellas. Literally the most feminine fabulous umbrellas Ive ever seen. I want one so badly! I want to buy them as gifts for people sooo badly! Sadly I cant spend 200-600 euros on an umbrella. I fell in love though.... yes with an umbrella. It was me in umbrella form I swear! It is used for summer and winter weather. It had two layers, the outside was a raw linen color, the inside was an off white almost nearly creme color of linen. It was so light and dainty, the bottom of it was a marvelous bamboo but the woman showed me you could switch it out with whatever handle I wished. When I have the means to spend hundreds on an umbrella... I know where to go!
After wandering the streets more I felt my energy decreasing so I found Les Deux Margots cafe, sat outside, ordered some tea and an omlette and people watched. Ah it was so perfect. There had just been a slight rain so the streets were wet but there was sun and blue skies out. These two old french men who invited me to eat with them... I happy declined but the conversation did not die. They were sweet, after they left they came back and brought me a little eiffel tower key chain.
The rest of the day consisted of me walking, then hanging out at an outside cafe with wine, Audrey and the people walking the streets of paris.